I have never felt more at home than I did when I lived in Hawai'i. I was a teenager when we arrived with preconceived notions of paradise. I went to high school, learned to drive, and got my first job there. Hawai'i is a beautiful, magical place. It is also complicated; full of history and pain.
The land is imbued with as much aloha (a commonly misunderstood word) as it is struggle. Its story is a familiar one of colonization and subjugation, but the people of Hawai'i are too proud and resilient to be held down for long. All the usual things are true about the Hawaiian islands – the water is the most gorgeous shade of blue, the weather is nearly perfect, there are rainbows around every corner, the food is sooo ono (delicious), and the locals are friendly.
The undercurrent of anguish is also obvious if you pay attention. Some tourists say the locals are unwelcoming or the homelessness problem is off-putting. But, like every other place, understanding its context makes it more wonderful.
Hawai‘i was a fully established kingdom with a monarchy, traditions, treaties, and a palace with electric light bulbs before even the White House had them. Their lives and land were shared amongst each others with no concept of owning land at all. When outsiders showed up, they welcomed them. When the outsiders claimed ownership of land, they said "Sure, you can grow here, live here, thrive here – all are welcome."
Slowly, the outsiders claimed more and more ownership and control of the land. Missionaries and businessmen worked together to instigate the Bayonet Constitution; literally holding King Kalakaua at bayonet-point forcing him to sign away many of the monarchy's powers. This allowed outsiders such as the Dole family to become part of the governance of Hawai‘i in a way that kanaka maoli (native Hawaiians) had never governed before. This was the beginning of the end of the kingdom, but not the people or the culture.
After the Bayonet Constitution, it was easier for the outsiders to manipulate the kanaka maoli as well as the American government and military. This led to their imprisoning Queen Lili‘uokalani in her own Iolani Palace while the marines came onshore and officially overthrew the monarchy. She was later charged with conspiracy As is common with colonization, the outsiders instituted boarding schools where kanaka maoli children were forced to integrate with American and Christian culture. They were physically and emotionally abused into speaking only English and espousing only Christian American culture and value. Displaying any Hawaiian language, religion, thought, or dress was severely punished. Many indigenous groups went through this process and retain so much PTSD that they are almost completely unable to speak their own language.
One of the only reasons Hawaiian language and culture was saved was due to Queen Lili‘uokalani and those around her. She begrudgingly accepted the provisional government's rule while stating she did not agree or accept any actions committed against her or the Kingdom. She did this to avoid loss of life of her subjects. The Kingdom of Hawai‘i at every turn was illegally and immorally annexed by the United States. There was a coordinated attempt to erase their people and culture from the face of the earth – all for land and profit. This singular fact remains clear in the minds of every kanaka maoli I have ever met.
Yet, they are not bitter. They do not begrudge those who truly care for the land they love. They are proponents of aloha and love. Many people ask, "Are Hawaiians racist?" The simple answer is no. I have only heard white people ask this question. For reference, I am white myself. I lived and worked there, I did not just visit. Some people are put off by the strength that kanana maoli display. They are put off by the way they do not take anybody's shit. Some people are not used to being told they do not own the place. Some people are not used to being told they must follow certain rules to protect the land. Some people are not used to being treated like everybody else. Some people are not used to being confronted with both beauty and horror at the same time. What some people perceive as "racism" I perceived as upfront, no bullshit, awareness of the past. This land was stolen, plain and simple. These people were subjugated, plain and simple. There is over a century of pain, theft, and murder.
There is also love, beauty, acceptance, and most of all aloha.
Aloha = alo + ha
alo: forward facing, exchange
ha: the breath of life
aloha is exchanging the breath of life
aloha is traditionally said by touching one's foreheads, grasping the back of
the neck, and breathing out with that "haaa" sound, literally exchanging breath
aloha is understanding
aloha is equal footing
aloha is recognizing your fellow human
aloha is love and closeness
aloha is giving freely
aloha is receiving graciously
aloha is the spirit that pervades all of the kingdom of Hawai‘i
aloha is what lingers even after you leave
aloha is the glow around your memories
aloha is the warmth of the sun on your skin
aloha is the awe of a rainbow
aloha is the lightness of floating in the open ocean
aloha is freedom
aloha is connection
aloha is strength
aloha is vulnerability
aloha is indestructible
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